The vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak references that define the model's history are the 5402, the original 1972 "Jumbo" designed by Gerald Genta and made until 1978; the 14790, a 1990s revival of the Jumbo proportions that ran through the following decade; and the 15202, the modern Jumbo Extra-Thin introduced in 2005 and still in production today. All three share the 39 mm extra-thin case that started the design, though case details, movements and dial printing changed across each. This guide covers what separates the 5402, 14790 and 15202, how to tell them apart, dealer prices in 2026 and what to check before buying a vintage or modern Jumbo. Bizak & Co. sources Royal Oak references to order; the Royal Oak collection lists the configurations we can seek.
Last reviewed on September 26, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.
Vintage and modern Jumbo references at a glance
| Attribute | 5402 | 14790 | 15202 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Years | 1972 to 1978 | 1993 to 2005 | 2005 to date |
| Case | 39 mm, extra-thin, the original Genta design | 39 mm, extra-thin, closely follows the 5402 | 39 mm, extra-thin, refined finishing and dial printing |
| Movement | Calibre 2121, ultra-thin automatic | Calibre 2121, same family, later production | Calibre 2121-descended movements, refined over the run |
| Dial | "Tapisserie" pattern, various early print styles | Tapisserie pattern, more standardised printing | Tapisserie pattern, finest current printing and lacquer |
| Status | Discontinued, the founding reference | Discontinued, the 1990s revival | Current production, hardest to buy new |
Source: Audemars Piguet, watch collection, which covers the current Jumbo the vintage references led to, and Audemars Piguet, services and warranty.
The 5402: where the Royal Oak began
Unveiled in 1972 at the Basel watch fair, the 5402 was the first luxury sports watch in steel, designed by Gerald Genta with an octagonal bezel, exposed bezel screws and an integrated bracelet at a time when steel sports watches were seen as a lower tier than precious-metal dress watches. It ran only six years and through several dial and bracelet variations that collectors track closely, including "A-series" examples from the earliest production and changes to the case back engraving over the run. Original, unpolished 5402s in good condition are scarce and command close attention from specialists given both their age and the range of small production variations.
The 14790: the 1990s Jumbo revival
Audemars Piguet reintroduced the extra-thin Jumbo proportions with the 14790 in 1993, after the Royal Oak line had grown into larger and more varied cases through the 1980s. It closely follows the original 5402's dimensions and dial language while benefiting from more consistent production and case finishing than the earliest examples. The 14790 ran for over a decade and is generally the most attainable of the three references discussed here, giving buyers who want the extra-thin Jumbo experience without either the age of a 5402 or the premium of a current 15202 a middle path.
The 15202: from revival to current production
Introduced in 2005, the 15202 refined the extra-thin Jumbo further, with sharper case finishing and dial printing than the 14790, while keeping the same 39 mm dimensions the design has carried since 1972. It remains in current production and is, by a wide margin, the hardest steel Royal Oak to buy at an authorised dealer, which has pushed its secondary market premium above every other reference in the current AP catalogue. Buyers choosing between a 14790 and a 15202 are largely choosing between an easier-to-source vintage watch and a current-production watch with a warranty but a long wait and high premium; both wear essentially the same way on the wrist.
How to tell the three references apart
- Check the case back. The reference number is engraved on the case back and is the definitive way to confirm which Jumbo is in hand.
- Look at dial printing sharpness. The 15202 generally shows the crispest, most consistent tapisserie printing and lacquer finish of the three.
- Note the bracelet and clasp. Clasp design and bracelet link construction changed across the decades and can help narrow the era before checking the case back.
- Consider production dates against the serial. A serial number consistent with 1970s production alongside a 5402 case back supports, but does not alone confirm, originality.
How much do vintage Royal Oak Jumbos cost? Dealer prices in 2026
- General market. Early 5402 examples in strong original condition are scarce and priced accordingly, generally above later production 14790 examples of similar condition, reflecting both age and rarity.
- Secondary market, 15202. The current 15202 in steel has traded at a significant premium to its last list price through 2025 and 2026, reflecting how hard it is to obtain new.
- Bizak catalogue asks, 26 September 2026. Our sourced catalogue listed a pre-owned steel 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01 from US$70,762 to US$86,005 depending on set and condition, and precious-metal 15202 variants from about US$92,999 to US$278,999 depending on metal and gem-setting, all sourced to order.
Those figures describe what we saw and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, era and set; our Audemars Piguet price guide explains how to compare quotes.
Is a vintage Royal Oak Jumbo a good buy today?
For buyers drawn to the design's history, a 5402 or 14790 offers the extra-thin Jumbo experience without the wait attached to a current 15202, generally at a lower total cost depending on condition and rarity. A 5402 demands careful vetting given its age and the range of production variations; a 14790 is a more straightforward purchase with fewer variables to check. Either is a defensible alternative to the current 15202 for a buyer who wants the design rather than the newest execution of it, though resale liquidity and premium differ by era and condition.
Buying a vintage Royal Oak: what to check
- Case back reference and serial. Confirm both match and are consistent with the claimed production era.
- Bracelet stretch and link wear. The integrated bracelet is part of the case design; a stretched or heavily worn bracelet is costly to correct.
- Bezel screws. The eight bezel screws should sit flush and show consistent wear with the rest of the case; replaced or mismatched screws are a flag.
- Dial condition and originality. Refinished dials reduce value; check printing sharpness and lume consistency, particularly on a 5402.
- Papers and service history. Original papers are rare on 1970s examples; ask for whatever documentation exists and the last known service date.
- Price against comparable listings. Given the range of production variations, compare any asking price against several recent examples of the same reference and era rather than a single listing.
Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch, and our Royal Oak authentication and collecting guide goes deeper on case and dial checks.
Quick answers
What is the difference between the Royal Oak 5402 and 15202?
The 5402 (1972 to 1978) is the original Jumbo with early production variations and no factory warranty available today. The 15202 (2005 to date) is the current production Jumbo, with the same 39 mm extra-thin case but refined finishing and a five-year warranty when bought new.
Is the 14790 a good alternative to the 15202?
Yes. The 14790 (1993 to 2005) offers the same extra-thin Jumbo proportions, is generally easier to source than the current 15202, and typically trades below the 15202's secondary premium.
How much does a Royal Oak 15202 cost?
Bizak's catalogue listed a pre-owned steel 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01 from US$70,762 to US$86,005 on 26 September 2026, depending on set and condition, well above its original list price.
Why is the 5402 significant?
It is the original 1972 Royal Oak, designed by Gerald Genta as the first luxury sports watch in steel, and the reference every later Royal Oak, including the current 15202, is descended from.
Are vintage Royal Oaks hard to authenticate?
They require careful checking, particularly the 5402, which ran through several small production variations over its short run; the case back reference and serial are the starting point, alongside dial and bracelet condition.
Request a sourcing quote for a Royal Oak Jumbo
Tell us the reference (5402, 14790 or 15202), metal, preferred era and whether papers are required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: Royal Oak 15202ST pre-owned, Royal Oak 15202OR rose gold, Royal Oak 15202IP titanium; browse the Royal Oak collection or sell or trade your Royal Oak.
Related reading: Royal Oak authentication and collecting guide · Audemars Piguet price guide · Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726 guide · Vintage Submariner authentication guide.
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