Aquanaut References Guide: 5167, 5168, 5164, 5968

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut range spans four distinct references worth knowing: the 5167, the current men's time-and-date model in steel with the tropical composite strap that most people picture when they hear "Aquanaut"; the 5168, the current women's Aquanaut Luce with diamond-set bezel options; the 5164, the Travel Time dual-time model with a jumping local hour hand; and the 5968, the Aquanaut chronograph. All share the Nautilus-derived rounded octagonal case with a tropical composite strap and rubber-like tactility rather than a metal bracelet or leather. This guide covers what separates the 5167, 5168, 5164 and 5968, dealer prices in 2026 and what to check before buying. Bizak & Co. sources Aquanaut references to order; the Aquanaut collection lists the configurations we can seek.

Last reviewed on September 26, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

Aquanaut references at a glance

Source: Patek Philippe, Aquanaut collection and Patek Philippe, full watch collection.

The 5167: the reference most people mean by "Aquanaut"

The 5167 is the standard men's Aquanaut, a 40.8 mm steel case with an embossed dial, the rounded octagonal bezel derived from the Nautilus, and the tropical composite strap that has become one of the reference's signatures. It carries only time and date, keeping the layout deliberately simple, and is the reference most collectors and dealers mean by "the Aquanaut" without further qualification. Rose gold versions exist alongside the steel case, generally at a materially higher price and, in the case of some dial and strap colour combinations, more limited availability.

The 5168: the women's Aquanaut Luce

The Aquanaut Luce, currently the 5168, is the family's women's line, with a 35.6 mm case and dial and bezel options including diamond-set versions across several colours. It shares the same tropical strap and case architecture as the men's references, scaled down and dressed up, and is generally positioned as a lifestyle watch rather than a tool watch in the way the larger references can read. Buyers considering a 5168 should treat it as a distinct sizing and design decision from the men's 5167 rather than simply a smaller version of the same watch.

The 5164: Travel Time for a second time zone

The 5164 adds Patek Philippe's Travel Time complication to the Aquanaut case: two local-hour hands adjustable independently via pushers at 10 and 8 o'clock, with day/night indicators for both zones. It is aimed squarely at buyers who travel across time zones and want that function built into a sports-styled everyday watch rather than a dress Calatrava. The case grows only marginally over the 5167 to accommodate the additional pushers, keeping the same wearing character.

The 5968: the Aquanaut chronograph

The 5968 is the family's chronograph, at 42.2 mm to accommodate the stopwatch subdials and pushers, available in steel and gold with a range of dial and strap colours, including a distinctive orange strap option. It is the largest and most complicated of the four references discussed here and reads more overtly sporty than the time-and-date 5167, with the added cost and visual complexity a chronograph brings to any watch family.

How much does an Aquanaut cost? Dealer prices in 2026

• Retail. Patek Philippe's list prices across the Aquanaut family have generally run from around the low US$30,000s for a steel 5167 to well above six figures for gold chronograph and Travel Time references; the current figures are on the Aquanaut collection page linked above.
• Secondary market. Steel Aquanaut references, particularly select dial colours on the 5167, have generally traded at a premium to retail through 2025 and 2026, though the premium is narrower than on the steel Nautilus.
• Bizak catalogue asks, 26 September 2026. Our sourced catalogue listed a steel 5167A-001 black dial at US$104,500, a steel 5164A-001 Travel Time at US$100,940 and a white gold 5164G-001 at US$177,109, and a steel 5968A-001 chronograph with an orange strap at US$166,320, all brand new and sourced to order.

Those figures describe what we saw and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, metal and strap; our Patek Philippe price guide explains how to compare quotes.

Which Aquanaut should you buy?

• Want the classic, simplest Aquanaut: the 5167 in steel with a black or khaki dial.
• Buying for a woman's wrist or want a dressier, smaller case: the 5168 Luce, with or without diamonds.
• Travel frequently across time zones: the 5164 Travel Time.
• Want a stopwatch function and the largest case in the family: the 5968 chronograph.

How does an Aquanaut wear day to day?

The tropical composite strap is the Aquanaut's defining feature: lighter and more casual against the skin than a metal bracelet, water-resistant, and available in a wide range of colours that change the watch's character more than the case does. All four references share the same rounded octagonal bezel and short lugs, which keeps them comfortable across a range of wrist sizes despite case diameters that run from 35.6 mm to 42.2 mm. The strap is also a wear item: it perishes over years of use and is a straightforward, budgetable replacement through Patek Philippe's service network.

Buying a used Aquanaut: what to check

• Strap condition. Cracking, stiffness or a chalky surface on the tropical composite strap is common with age and a normal cost to factor into a pre-owned purchase.
• Papers and extract. A Patek Philippe warranty card or extract confirms production date and original configuration.
• Dial and bezel condition. The embossed dial pattern should be crisp; a soft, worn-looking pattern suggests age or wear rather than a fault, but affects value.
• Pusher and crown function on complicated references. On the 5164 and 5968, confirm the Travel Time pushers or chronograph pushers operate cleanly before purchase.
• Movement service history. Ask for the last service date and by whom, particularly on chronograph and Travel Time references with more moving parts to maintain.
• Price against comparable listings. Compare any asking price against several recent listings for the same reference, metal and strap colour.

Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch.

Quick answers

What is the difference between the Aquanaut 5167 and 5164?

The 5167 has time and date only. The 5164 adds Patek Philippe's Travel Time complication, with a second, independently adjustable local-hour hand and day/night indicators for two time zones, in a case only marginally larger than the 5167.

What is the Aquanaut Luce?

The Aquanaut Luce, currently reference 5168, is the family's women's line: a smaller 35.6 mm case with dial and bezel options including diamond-set versions, sharing the same case architecture as the men's references.

Which Aquanaut is the chronograph?

The 5968, at 42.2 mm, is the Aquanaut chronograph, the largest and most complicated reference in the family discussed here.

How much does an Aquanaut 5167 cost?

Bizak's catalogue listed a steel 5167A-001 black dial at US$104,500 brand new on 26 September 2026; retail list prices for the family start lower, around the low US$30,000s for a steel 5167.

Is the Aquanaut easier to buy than the Nautilus?

Generally somewhat, though the most popular steel dial colours on the 5167 still command a premium and can involve a wait at authorised dealers, less pronounced than on the current steel Nautilus.

Request a sourcing quote for an Aquanaut

Tell us the reference (5167, 5168, 5164 or 5968), metal, dial and strap colour, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: Aquanaut 5167A-001, Aquanaut 5164A-001 Travel Time, Aquanaut 5968A-001 chronograph; browse the Aquanaut collection or sell or trade your Aquanaut.

Related reading: Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 guide · Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726 guide · Patek Philippe Nautilus 5740 guide · Patek Philippe price guide.