About the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990
The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5990 was introduced as a grand complication within the sport-elegant Nautilus line, pairing a dual time zone travel time display with a flyback chronograph function in a single integrated package. At 40.5 mm the case retains the horizontally embossed dial, stepped lugs, and self-locking fold-over clasp that have defined the Nautilus since its 1976 debut, while the added pushers and subdials make the 5990 immediately distinguishable from simpler Nautilus references. The steel references such as the 5990/1A-001 and 5990/1A-011 carry the blue or gray dials most associated with the sports Nautilus, while the 5990/1R-001 in rose gold offers a warmer, more formal character with a blue dial. The Haute Joaillerie editions represent a rarefied stratum where gem-setting artisans work the bezel, case, and bracelet links of white gold pieces into fully pavé surfaces, creating watches that function as wearable jewelry at the highest level.
What to Look For
Buyers comparing 5990 references should pay close attention to case material and dial color, as the steel blue-and-black 5990/1A-011 and the rose gold blue 5990/1R-001 carry distinct market premiums driven by material and scarcity. The Haute Joaillerie trio—5990/1400G-001 with diamonds only, 5990/1422G-001 with diamonds and rubies, and 5990/1423G-001 with diamonds and emeralds—command significantly higher valuations and are produced in extremely limited numbers, making provenance documentation and authentication critical when purchasing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What complications does the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 have?
The Nautilus 5990 features a flyback chronograph and a travel time complication that allows the wearer to track two time zones simultaneously, making it one of the few sport watches to combine both functions in one reference. This dual-complication layout is what sets the 5990 apart from the standard Nautilus chronograph and annual calendar references within the same family.
What is the difference between the 5990/1A-001, 5990/1A-011, and 5990/1R-001?
The 5990/1A-001 and 5990/1A-011 are both stainless steel references at 40.5 mm but differ in dial presentation, with the -001 typically wearing a gray dial and the -011 carrying a blue and black dial configuration. The 5990/1R-001 moves to 18k rose gold with a blue dial, offering a warmer tone and a more precious metal specification that is reflected in its higher market value.
Are the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Haute Joaillerie watches brand new at Bizak and Co.?
Yes, the 5990/1400G-001, 5990/1422G-001, and 5990/1423G-001 listed in this collection are offered brand new, meaning they come with full manufacturer packaging and documentation. Because Haute Joaillerie Nautilus pieces are produced in very limited quantities, availability is rare and prospective buyers are encouraged to inquire promptly.
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Buy, trade, or sell. Contact Bizak & Co. for pricing and availability on any reference in this collection.
