About the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990
The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5990 is the travel-time and flyback chronograph member of the Nautilus family, a line Gerald Genta designed in 1976 with its now-famous horizontally embossed dial and integrated bracelet. The 5990 builds on that heritage by housing a high-complication movement that allows travelers to track two time zones simultaneously while using a flyback function to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push, eliminating the stop-zero-reset sequence required by conventional chronographs. The 40.5 mm case retains the octagonal bezel with rounded edges and the Nautilus's distinctive porthole silhouette, ensuring it reads unmistakably as part of the family whether executed in brushed and polished steel, warm rose gold, or diamond-set white gold. Haute Joaillerie variants such as the 5990/1400G-001, 5990/1422G-001, and 5990/1423G-001 elevate the reference further with precious stone settings that transform a sports chronograph into a collector's jewel.
What to Look For
When shopping for a Patek Philippe 5990, the primary variables to evaluate are case material, dial color, and stone setting, since these factors most directly affect both aesthetics and market value, with white-gold Haute Joaillerie references commanding significant premiums over their steel counterparts. Steel references like the 5990/1A-001 with a gray dial and the 5990/1A-011 and 5990/1AB1 in blue and black represent the most accessible entry points into the reference and tend to carry strong secondary-market demand precisely because Patek Philippe production of any Nautilus in steel is tightly allocated. Rose gold examples such as the 5990/1R-001 with a blue dial sit at a middle tier, offering warmth and rarity, while the diamond, ruby, and emerald Haute Joaillerie pieces are essentially one-of-a-kind statement watches whose value is driven by gemstone quality and completeness of the original presentation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What complication does the Patek Philippe 5990 offer?
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 combines a flyback chronograph with a dual-time-zone function featuring an instantaneous-jumping local hour hand, allowing the wearer to track home and local time simultaneously. This pairing of two high-level complications in the Nautilus's 40.5 mm case is what distinguishes the 5990 from other references in the Nautilus family.
What case materials and dial colors are available in the 5990 collection?
The 5990 is produced in stainless steel with gray or blue and black dials, in 18k rose gold with a blue dial, and in 18k white gold for both standard and Haute Joaillerie stone-set variants that retain a gray dial. This range ensures that buyers seeking a sporting steel look, a luxurious gold aesthetic, or a fully jeweled collector's piece can all find a 5990 configuration to match their preference.
Are the Patek Philippe 5990 watches at Bizak and Co. new or pre-owned?
The 5990 listings at Bizak and Co. include brand-new examples such as the Haute Joaillerie white-gold references 5990/1400G-001, 5990/1422G-001, and 5990/1423G-001, as well as additional steel and rose-gold configurations. Every watch is authenticated before sale, and the team is available to confirm sourcing, condition, today's price and insured shipping for any specific reference.
Browse also: Patek Philippe collection.
Buy, trade, or sell. Contact Bizak & Co. for pricing and availability on any reference in this collection.
