Vintage Rolex Submariner References Guide: 5513, 1680, 16800 and 14060

The vintage Rolex Submariner references most buyers ask about are the no-date 5513, the first date Submariner 1680, the transitional 16800 and the no-date 14060, and together they cover the model's evolution from a plain acrylic-crystal tool watch in 1962 to a sapphire-crystal, 300 m, unidirectional-bezel watch that was still being made in 2012. Each has a distinct case, crystal, movement and dial history, and each attracts a different kind of buyer and a different price. This guide sets out what each reference is, the dial variants that move value, how the four compare, how they wear, dated 2026 prices and what to check before buying a watch that is now between 14 and 64 years old. Bizak & Co. sources vintage Submariners to order; the used Submariner collection lists the configurations we can seek.

Last reviewed on September 25, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

Which vintage Submariner references matter?

Rolex made the Submariner in a long chain of references from 1953, but four cover most of what a buyer will meet on the vintage market. The 5513 is the no-date Submariner of the 1960s to 1980s, the longest-running and the most affordable. The 1680 introduced the date and the Cyclops in the late 1960s and includes the "Red Sub" dials. The 16800 of the early 1980s brought the sapphire crystal, the quickset date, the 300 m rating and the unidirectional bezel that define every Submariner since. The 14060 is the no-date Submariner of the 1990s and 2000s, the last with drilled lugs and a slim case, and the one most people mean by a "vintage-style" Submariner they can still wear every day. The 5512 (chronometer sibling of the 5513), the 1665 Sea-Dweller and the 16610 sit around these four and are worth knowing, but the four above are where the questions come from.

Vintage Rolex Submariner references compared

Sources: the Rolex Submariner collection page for the current successors, and Rolex watch care and service for the service and parts policy that applies to older references. Dates for discontinued references are approximate; Rolex does not publish production records.

Rolex Submariner 5513: the no-date classic

The 5513 ran for nearly three decades on essentially the same 40 mm case with crown guards, an acrylic crystal and a non-chronometer movement, which is why its dial says "Submariner 200 m = 660 ft" in two lines rather than the four lines of the chronometer-certified 5512. The dial history is the whole story of 5513 collecting. Gilt dials from 1962 to about 1966 have gold printing on a glossy black surface and are the most valuable. Matte dials from about 1966 to 1984 have painted lume plots and come in "meters first" (to about 1969) and "feet first" versions, with several typeface variants collectors name. From about 1984 the dial went gloss with white gold surrounds around the lume plots, the last iteration before the 14060 replaced it. Bracelets moved from riveted 7206 to folded-link 9315 to solid-link 93150. A late gloss-dial 5513 is the most affordable vintage Submariner; a clean gilt example is a collector piece. The Phillips watch department and Sotheby's catalogues are the best public record of how much dial condition changes the price.

Rolex Submariner 1680: the first date Submariner and the Red Sub

The 1680 added a date window with a Cyclops to the Submariner for the first time. It kept the acrylic crystal, 200 m rating and bidirectional bezel of the 5513 but used the chronometer-grade calibre 1575. The early dials printed the word "Submariner" in red, and those Red Subs, made until roughly 1973 to 1975, are the collectible version; six or so dial marks are recognised by collectors, and the earlier "meters first" marks are the rarer. Later 1680s have white text and cost less. The 1680 also came in 18 ct yellow gold as the 1680/8 with black or blue nipple dials. A red-dial 1680 is priced by its dial mark and condition; a white-dial 1680 is a comfortable way into a 1970s Submariner with a date.

Rolex Submariner 16800: the transitional reference

The 16800 is called transitional because it introduced almost everything a modern Submariner has while keeping the slim case of the vintage ones. It brought the sapphire crystal, the 300 m rating, the unidirectional 120-click bezel and the calibre 3035 with a quickset date. Early examples have a matte dial with painted lume like the 1680; later ones have the gloss dial with white gold surrounds that continued on the 16610. Because it sits between eras and was made for less than a decade, it is often the least expensive Submariner with a date on the market, and a matte-dial 16800 is a quiet collector favourite. The 168000 that followed it briefly in 1988 was the same watch in 904L steel before the 16610 arrived.

Rolex Submariner 14060: the modern vintage no-date

The 14060 replaced the 5513 in 1990 and stayed in the catalogue until 2012, when the 114060 with a ceramic bezel and maxi case took over. It has the sapphire crystal, 300 m rating and unidirectional bezel of the 16800, in a no-date case with drilled lug holes and an aluminium bezel insert. The 14060 used the calibre 3000; the 14060M from about 2002 used the 3130, and from about 2007 the dial gained the four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" text as Rolex certified the movement. It is the last Submariner that feels like the vintage ones on the wrist and the one to buy if you want a slim, symmetrical dial with no Cyclops but a watch that can still be worn daily without worrying about an acrylic crystal. The Submariner 124060 guide covers the current no-date if a warranty and the 70-hour movement matter more.

How do vintage Submariners wear?

All four are 40 mm with a lug-to-lug of about 47.5 mm and 20 mm lugs, but they wear thinner and lighter than a modern Submariner because the cases are slimmer, the lugs are narrower and the bracelets are hollow or folded-link on the earlier references. A 5513 or 1680 on a folded 9315 bracelet weighs noticeably less than a 16610 on a solid 93150. Acrylic crystals scratch easily but polish out; sapphire does not scratch but chips at the edge if struck. The bidirectional friction bezels on the 5513 and 1680 turn both ways and were never meant to click. If you plan to swim, a vintage Submariner needs a recent pressure test regardless of what the dial says.

How much is a vintage Rolex Submariner? Prices in 2026

• Bizak catalogue asks. On 25 September 2026 our sourced catalogue listed a 5513 at US$8,369, a 1680 at US$11,159, a 16800 at US$6,974 and a 14060 at US$8,834, all pre-owned and sourced to order, alongside 16610 examples from US$8,369. Each was a standard-dial example; gilt 5513s, Red Subs and matte 16800s are quoted on request.
• What moves the price. On these references the dial is worth more than the rest of the watch combined. An original gilt or Red Sub dial, even tritium patina, matching hands, an unpolished case with sharp chamfers and drilled lugs, and the correct period bracelet each add; a service dial, replaced hands, a service bezel insert, a polished case and a stretched bracelet each subtract.
• Papers. Original punched papers for a 1960s or 1970s Submariner are rare and add a premium; for the 14060 a full set is common enough that its absence should reduce the price.

Those figures describe what we saw and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, dial and set; our Submariner price guide explains how to compare quotes.

Buying a vintage Submariner: what to check

• Dial originality. Confirm the dial text, lume type and typeface match the serial range. Tritium dials read "T SWISS T" or "SWISS - T < 25"; a "SWISS MADE" dial in a 1970s watch is a service replacement. Lume on dial and hands should match in colour.
• Serial and reference. The serial sits between the lugs at 6 and the reference between the lugs at 12; both should be crisp, not softened by polishing, and the serial should sit in the production range for the reference.
• Case. Look for sharp lug chamfers, crisp drilled lug holes and even brushing; rounded lugs mean repeated polishing. Crown guards should be symmetrical.
• Bezel insert. Faded inserts are prized if original; a bright new insert on a 1970s watch is a service part, acceptable if priced as one. Bidirectional bezels on the 5513 and 1680 should turn with even friction.
• Crystal. Acrylic crystals on the 5513 and 1680 should have the Rolex crown etched at 6 only on later service crystals; sapphire on the 16800 and 14060 should be chip-free at the edge.
• Bracelet. Check the clasp code against the year and hold the watch by the clasp: a bracelet that sags into a curve is stretched. Folded-link bracelets stretch more than solid ones.
• Movement and service. Ask for the last service receipt and pressure-test date, and budget for a service if there is no record. Parts for the 1530, 1520 and 1575 are scarcer than for the 3035 and 3000.
• Price against the band. A gilt 5513 or Red Sub offered well under the market is the single most reliable warning sign.

Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch, and our vintage Submariner authentication guide goes deeper on dials, inserts and serials.

Quick answers

What is the best vintage Rolex Submariner reference to buy?

For value and daily wear, a 16800 or 14060 with a sapphire crystal and 300 m rating. For a vintage feel, a matte-dial 5513. For collecting, a gilt 5513 or a Red Sub 1680, bought on the dial rather than the case.

How much is a vintage Rolex Submariner?

Bizak's sourced catalogue listed a 16800 at US$6,974, a 5513 at US$8,369, a 14060 at US$8,834 and a 1680 at US$11,159 on 25 September 2026, all pre-owned and sourced to order. Gilt and red-text dials cost far more.

What is a Red Sub?

A Rolex Submariner 1680 with the word "Submariner" printed in red on the dial, made from about 1969 to the mid-1970s. Later 1680 dials print it in white.

What is the difference between the Submariner 5513 and 5512?

The 5512 used a chronometer-certified movement and has a four-line dial; the 5513 used a non-certified movement and has a two-line dial. Cases and bezels are the same.

Does a vintage Submariner have a sapphire crystal?

Only from the 16800 onward, introduced about 1979. The 5513 and 1680 have acrylic crystals; the 14060 has sapphire.

Request a vintage Submariner sourcing quote

Tell us the reference, preferred dial variant or serial range, condition and whether papers are required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: Submariner 5513, Submariner 1680, Submariner 16800, Submariner 14060; browse the used Submariner collection, the Submariner collection, or sell or trade your Submariner.

Related reading: Vintage Submariner authentication · Submariner 16610LV Kermit guide · Submariner 16613 Bluesy guide · Submariner price guide.