The Patek Philippe 5231G-001 is a World Time from the Rare Handcrafts collection: a 38.5 mm white gold watch whose dial centre carries a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel map of Oceania and South-East Asia, driven by the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 HU. It shows all 24 time zones at once through a city disc and a 24-hour day and night ring, and it comes on a matte navy blue alligator strap. This guide covers the specifications, how a World Time watch is read and set, what the enamel dial involves, how the 5231G compares with a standard World Time, how the manufacturer price compares with dealer listings in 2026, and what to check before buying. Bizak & Co. sources the 5231G-001 to order; the Patek Philippe Complications collection lists the configurations we can seek.
Last reviewed on September 28, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.
Patek Philippe 5231G-001 specifications
| Attribute | 5231G-001 |
|---|---|
| Case | White gold, 38.5 mm, 10.23 mm thick, sapphire crystal case back, water resistant to 30 m |
| Dial | Grand Feu cloisonné enamel centre depicting Oceania and South-East Asia with four gold spangles, on an 18 ct gold dial plate; white gold hands, circle-shaped for the hours and lozenge-shaped for the minutes |
| Movement | Calibre 240 HU, self-winding World Time with 24-hour and day and night indication for 24 time zones; 32 mm across, 3.88 mm thick, 229 parts, 33 jewels, minimum 48 hours of power reserve, 22 ct gold off-centre mini-rotor, Gyromax balance, 21,600 vibrations an hour, Spiromax balance spring |
| Strap | Matte navy blue alligator leather with a white gold fold-over clasp |
| Hallmark | Patek Philippe Seal |
| Bizak catalogue listing, September 28, 2026 | US$117,420, brand new, sourced to order |
Source: the Patek Philippe 5231G-001 product page, read on September 28, 2026, and the Complications collection page. Some catalogues describe this watch loosely as a black and golden dress watch on leather; the manufacturer's page above is the reference for the dial, strap and movement.
What is a World Time watch, and how do you read it?
A World Time watch shows the time in every time zone at once. On the 5231G-001 a rotating disc with city names sits around the edge of the dial, and a 24-hour ring shows which zones are in daylight and which in night. Read your own time from the hour and minute hands, then look across to the ring to see what time it is elsewhere. The 24-hour ring turns once a day; the city disc aligns the local zone with the 12 o'clock position of the hour hand.
To change your local time when you travel, Patek Philippe's World Time mechanism uses a corrector on the case flank that moves the hour hand and the city disc together in one-hour steps, so the watch stays correct in every zone without stopping the movement. The instructions for use on the manufacturer's page describe the exact procedure for the calibre 240 HU; follow it rather than forcing the crown.
What does a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial involve?
Cloisonné enamel is a hand technique in which thin gold wires are formed into cells on a gold plate, the cells are filled with coloured enamel powder and the plate is fired at high temperature several times, then ground and polished. Patek Philippe files the 5231G-001 under its Rare Handcrafts collection, and the enamel centre is the point of the watch: the continents and seas are drawn with wire rather than printed.
Three practical consequences follow. First, every dial is slightly different, so photographs of the actual watch matter more than catalogue images. Second, enamel is glass, so it is extremely stable in colour but can chip or crack under an impact; there is no refinishing route for a damaged enamel dial in the way there is for a metal dial. Third, the labour involved is a large part of why enamel World Time watches cost more than their standard equivalents.
5231G-001 versus a standard World Time
| 5231G-001 Rare Handcrafts | Standard World Time such as the 5230 | |
|---|---|---|
| Dial centre | Grand Feu cloisonné enamel map of Oceania and South-East Asia | Metal dial centre without enamel |
| Movement | Calibre 240 HU, World Time | Same movement family |
| Case size | 38.5 mm | 38.5 mm |
| Character | Collectible dial; a piece of craft | Functional traveller's watch |
| Risk | Enamel can chip; limited repair options | Standard servicing |
Confirm the current standard World Time references and specifications on the Complications collection page, because Patek Philippe adds and retires references over time. If you want a World Time that you can wear hard and service like any other, the standard reference is the practical choice. If the dial is the point, the 5231G-001 is the one.
How does the 5231G-001 wear?
At 38.5 mm the case sits comfortably under a shirt cuff and suits most wrists. The 3.88 mm-thick movement with an off-centre mini-rotor keeps the watch reasonably slim for a complication, though at 10.23 mm it is thicker than a plain dress watch, mostly because of the World Time disc stack and the crystal. The navy alligator strap is dressier than the bracelet on a sports watch and pairs with a navy or grey suit; it is a dress watch that happens to travel. Water resistance is only 30 m, so it is not a beach watch. Try it on before buying if you can: a World Time dial is busy, with a city ring, a 24-hour ring and the enamel centre, and legibility depends on how the ring colours look against the map in your usual light.
How much is a Patek Philippe 5231G-001 in 2026?
- Patek Philippe website. The manufacturer's US product page displayed US$107,402 on September 28, 2026. Patek Philippe supplies watches through authorised retailers, so a displayed price does not mean a watch can be bought on a given day.
- Bizak catalogue listing. On September 28, 2026 Bizak's sourced catalogue listed a brand-new example at US$117,420, sourced to order, which is roughly 9 percent above the manufacturer figure we saw.
- What moves the price. Condition, the completeness of the box and papers, the date on the warranty card and how quickly you need the watch.
Those figures describe what we saw on that date and will move. Ask for a dated written quote for the exact watch and its papers. For context across the brand, read our Patek Philippe price guide.
Buying a 5231G-001: what to check
- Dial. The enamel should be smooth and free of chips, cracks and hairlines around the spangles and the edge of the map; ask for macro photographs in daylight.
- Configuration. Check that the watch matches the manufacturer's description: navy blue alligator strap, white gold case, enamel centre and four gold spangles.
- Function. The corrector should advance the hour hand and city disc in one-hour steps, and the 24-hour ring should keep turning smoothly.
- Documents. Box, warranty card and papers should match the reference and serial number; ask for the card date.
- Strap and clasp. Alligator ages; check the strap and the fold-over clasp for wear and ask whether the strap is original.
- Price against the band. A brand-new watch offered far below the manufacturer's displayed price is a warning sign.
Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch. Patek Philippe's Extract from the Archives can confirm the details of a watch's original sale where records exist, which is worth requesting on a pre-owned example.
Caring for an enamel World Time
Treat the dial as the delicate element. Avoid knocks, keep the watch out of strong heat and follow the manufacturer's care guidance in the watch care recommendations. Remove the watch for sports and swimming. Have the movement serviced at an authorised service centre on the schedule the manufacturer recommends, and ask that centre for a quote before assuming any dial repair is possible.
Who is the 5231G-001 for?
It is for a buyer who travels or simply enjoys the idea of the world on the wrist, wants a dress-sized complication, and values a handmade dial over a specification sheet. It is a less obvious choice than a Nautilus or Calatrava, which also means fewer people compete for it and there is less resale data to lean on. See our Nautilus 5726 guide if you want a different kind of complication in Patek Philippe's sports line.
Quick answers
How much is the Patek Philippe 5231G-001?
Patek Philippe's US website displayed US$107,402 on September 28, 2026. Bizak's sourced catalogue listed a brand-new example at US$117,420 the same day, sourced to order.
What is the 5231G-001 dial made of?
A Grand Feu cloisonné enamel centre depicting Oceania and South-East Asia, on an 18 ct gold dial plate, with four gold spangles.
What movement does the 5231G-001 use?
The self-winding calibre 240 HU with a World Time display for 24 time zones, a 22 ct gold off-centre mini-rotor and at least 48 hours of power reserve.
How large is the 5231G-001?
The white gold case is 38.5 mm across and 10.23 mm thick, on a navy blue alligator strap with a fold-over clasp.
Can a 5231G-001 be worn every day?
Yes, but water resistance is only 30 m and enamel can chip on impact, so treat it as a dress watch and avoid sports and swimming.
Request a 5231G-001 sourcing quote
Tell us the reference, whether a full set is required, your budget and timing through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entry: Complications 5231G-001. Browse the Complications collection, all Patek Philippe or certified pre-owned Patek Philippe, or sell or trade your Patek Philippe.
Related reading: Patek Philippe watch prices · Nautilus 5726 guide · Aquanaut 5167 guide · Watch nicknames explained.
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