Gem-Set Rolex Daytona: Rainbow, Ruby and Diamond-Paved References Explained

|Filip Biczak
Rolex Rainbow Daytona in Everose gold with a graduated baguette sapphire bezel

Short answer: A gem-set Rolex Daytona is a Cosmograph Daytona that left Rolex's workshops with precious stones set into the bezel, and sometimes the dial and lugs. There are four families: round-diamond bezels (RBR), trapeze-diamond bezels (TBR), the Rainbow (RBOW, 36 baguette-cut sapphires graded through the spectrum) and the ruby TRU references, such as the white gold 126599TRU and the yellow gold 126598TRU, with baguette-cut rubies on the bezel. Rainbow and ruby references are off-catalog, so they reach buyers through the secondary market, where stone-set Daytonas that Rolex never made are common. Browse the Rainbow Daytona collection.

Last reviewed on October 28, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Specifications for catalog references come from Rolex's Cosmograph Daytona page on rolex.com. Rolex does not publish its off-catalog Rainbow and ruby references, so those details follow dealer listings and watch press and are described in general terms. Bizak & Co. is independent and not affiliated with Rolex.

Shop by style: Rainbow · Diamond bezel · Diamond pavé · White gold pavé · Yellow gold diamond · Every Daytona

What is a gem-set Rolex Daytona?

It is a Daytona whose bezel, and in some cases dial, lugs or bracelet, is set with diamonds, sapphires or rubies by Rolex itself. The setting replaces the engraved tachymeter scale, and the stones are fixed in 18 kt gold or platinum. Rolex's reference suffix tells you what was set:

  • RBR: round brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel.
  • TBR: trapeze-cut (baguette) diamonds on the bezel, with diamond-set lugs on current models.
  • RBOW: the Rainbow, with graduated baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel.
  • TRU: baguette-cut rubies on the bezel.

Our guide to factory and aftermarket Rolex diamond bezels covers the same question across every model; this page stays on the Daytona.

Which gem-set Daytona references exist?

Four groups cover the factory range: diamond bezel, diamond baguette, Rainbow and ruby. The table lists them for the current 126-series with its 40 mm Oyster case.

Reference Metal Bezel stones Catalog status
126589RBR (Oysterflex), 126579RBR (Oyster) White gold 36 round brilliant-cut diamonds Rolex catalog
126538TBR, 126535TBR, 126539TBR (Oysterflex); 126598TBR, 126595TBR (Oyster) Yellow, Everose or white gold 36 trapeze-cut diamonds, plus diamond-set lugs Rolex catalog
126598RBOW, 126595RBOW, 126599RBOW Yellow, Everose, white gold 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradient Off-catalog
126599TRU, 126598TRU White gold, yellow gold Baguette-cut rubies (diamond-paved dial on the 126598TRU) Off-catalog

All of these use the current calibre 4131. The generation before, the 116-series, ran calibre 4130 and includes the original Rainbow 116598RBOW in yellow gold.

What is the Rolex Rainbow Daytona?

The Rainbow is a Daytona with a bezel of 36 baguette-cut sapphires graduated through the colors of the spectrum, usually on a black dial. Rolex first made it in yellow gold as the 116598RBOW in 2012 and later added Everose and white gold versions. Sapphire hue and saturation vary by stone, so two Rainbows are never identical. Dial options vary by reference and year, so confirm the exact dial when comparing listings. Our Rainbow Daytona collection shows the variations. Not every colorful Daytona is gem-set: the turquoise dial on the yellow gold 126518LN is lacquer, not stones, and is explained in our Rolex Daytona Tiffany blue guide.

What is the Rolex Daytona 126599TRU with rubies?

The 126599TRU is a white gold Daytona with a bezel of baguette-cut rubies and a black dial, introduced in 2023. Its yellow gold sibling, the 126598TRU, pairs the ruby bezel with a diamond-paved dial. Dealers describe the rubies as a deep red, often called pigeon blood. It is a TRU reference, not a Rainbow, and it sits outside Rolex's public catalog. That rarity is why "Rolex Daytona ruby" is a search with few honest answers, and why it pays to confirm the reference letter by letter before discussing a watch.

Diamond pavé or diamond bezel on a Daytona?

A diamond bezel sets stones on the bezel only, while a pavé watch also covers the dial, and sometimes the case sides or bracelet, in small stones. The two terms are often mixed up in listings, so ask which parts carry stones. Browse Daytona diamond bezel models for bezel-only watches, and the diamond pavé, white gold pavé and yellow gold diamond collections for dials and cases set with stones.

How can you tell a factory gem-set Daytona from an aftermarket one?

Match the reference on the papers to the stones, the metal and the movement. An aftermarket piece is a standard Daytona that another company drilled and set. Six checks:

  • Read the full reference. A real Rainbow carries an RBOW reference, and a current ruby-bezel Daytona carries a TRU reference, such as the white gold 126599TRU or the yellow gold 126598TRU. Confirm the full reference on the guarantee card. If the papers say 116509 or 116500LN, the stones are not Rolex's.
  • Watch for the word "custom". Listings that say custom, modified, or aftermarket gem set describe a conversion, however good the work.
  • Check the metal. Factory stones are set in gold or platinum. A steel Daytona with stones is a conversion.
  • Count and compare the stones. Factory bezels carry a fixed number, 36 on current Daytona gem-set bezels, with even calibration and no gaps. Ask for macro photos.
  • Match the dial and bezel to the case. Mixed serial, reference and dial details are the usual giveaway.
  • Know the warranty position. Rolex's guarantee excludes watches modified with non-genuine parts, so a converted watch loses cover and many service centers will not work on it unless genuine parts are refitted.

Authentic does not always mean factory-set: the Rolex watch can be genuine while its stones are not. Our Rolex Daytona buying guide covers the core references these gem-set models are built on.

What do gem-set Daytonas cost?

Factory diamond-bezel Daytonas start in the high five figures to low six figures, and Rainbow and ruby references sit well into six figures, since Rolex does not list them. Aftermarket conversions sell at a large discount to factory pieces and should be priced as modified watches. Treat any gem-set Daytona priced near a plain gold one as a conversion until the papers prove otherwise. Use the from-prices on the linked listings as a starting point only; a sourced watch is quoted on the day.

What should you ask before sourcing a gem-set Daytona?

Ask for the exact reference, the metal, the stone type and count, and the paperwork. Send these questions with your request:

  • Is the reference RBR, TBR, RBOW or TRU, and is it shown on the guarantee card?
  • Were the stones set by Rolex, and has the watch ever been modified or serviced outside Rolex?
  • Does the seller have the box, papers and macro photos of the bezel?
  • What year is it, and which calibre does it carry?

Quick answers

What is the most valuable Rolex Daytona?

Among current gem-set references, the Rainbow and the ruby TRU references sit at the top because Rolex does not list them and the stones are hand-selected. Vintage steel Daytonas can be worth more, so value depends on reference, condition and provenance.

Is the Rolex Rainbow Daytona made by Rolex?

Yes. Rolex has made the Rainbow since 2012, in RBOW references. A Daytona with colored stones on a different reference was set after leaving Rolex.

Does Rolex make a Daytona with rubies?

Yes. Rolex makes ruby-bezel Daytonas in TRU references, such as the white gold 126599TRU, reported from 2023, and the yellow gold 126598TRU with a diamond-paved dial. Both are off-catalog, so confirm the full reference and papers.

Does a gem-set Daytona hold its value?

Factory references with documents tend to hold value better than conversions, but resale depends on demand, condition and the exact stones. Do not buy on the assumption that it will appreciate.

Request a sourcing quote

Looking for a particular metal, dial or stone set? Send the details through our sourcing enquiry form.

Related reading: Rolex diamond bezels: factory vs aftermarket · Rolex Daytona buying guide · Rolex platinum Daytona 126506 · Every Rolex Daytona

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