Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Guide: Travel Time Chronograph References, Prices, 5990/1A vs 5990/1R

Quick answer: the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 is a travel time chronograph: one automatic watch that times events with a flyback chronograph and shows a second time zone with day and night indicators. Its 40.5 mm case comes in steel (5990/1A-011) and rose gold (5990/1R-001), and the original black-blue steel 5990/1A-001 is the discontinued version.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 is the Travel Time Chronograph: a 40.5 mm Nautilus that combines a flyback chronograph with a second time zone, day and night indicators and a local date. Launched in 2014 in steel, it was the most complicated Nautilus in the catalogue until the 5740 perpetual calendar arrived, and it remains the reference for buyers who want one sports watch that does everything. This guide covers the steel 5990/1A-001 and 5990/1A-011, the rose gold 5990/1R-001, the gem-set 5990/1400G family, 2026 prices, how the 5990 compares with the 5980 and 5726, and what to check before buying. Bizak & Co. sources 5990 references to order; the Nautilus collection lists the configurations we can seek.

Last reviewed on October 28, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

Patek 5990 specifications

Two hour hands make the 5990 easy to read as a travel watch: the solid hand is local time, the skeletonised hand is home time, and the left-side pushers move local time forwards or backwards in one-hour jumps without stopping the watch. The chronograph's flyback function restarts a running measurement with one press.

Source: Patek Philippe, Nautilus collection and the Patek Philippe collection overview for current production status.

Looking for a 5990? We source Travel Time Chronographs to order rather than holding them, so the useful first step is to tell us the reference, the dial version and whether original papers are essential. Send those details, with your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form and we will look for a verified example that fits.

What is a travel time chronograph, and how does the 5990 work?

A travel time chronograph packs two separate jobs into one case: a stopwatch that can time events, and a second time zone you can adjust without touching the main time. On the 5990 the two functions run on the same movement but are controlled independently. The chronograph is operated from the right-hand pushers. The local hour hand is moved from the two correctors on the left flank, one pusher stepping it forward and the other back, one hour at a time, while the home-time hand and the minute hand keep running. The day and night apertures show whether it is daytime or night in each zone, which removes the usual guesswork when you set the watch on arrival. Because the date is linked to local time, it moves with the local hour hand as you cross zones. Check the exact operating sequence for your example in Patek's own documentation, as procedures can differ between versions.

Every Nautilus 5990 reference

The 2021 update replaced the original black-to-blue dial with a plain blue sunburst dial and added the rose gold version at the same time. Our reference numbers guide explains the "/1" bracelet code and the metal letters; the 5990/1R-001 review covers the rose gold watch in detail.

5990/1A vs 5990/1R: steel or rose gold?

Mechanically the two are the same watch, so the choice comes down to metal, dial finish and budget. Steel is the more discreet everyday option and carries the larger resale premium over retail; rose gold is the dressier, heavier watch. If you are still deciding whether a Nautilus is the right Patek sports watch at all, our Nautilus vs Aquanaut comparison is a useful next read.

Is the Patek 5990 discontinued?

Only the first version. The steel 5990/1A-001 with the black-blue dial was retired in 2021 when Patek introduced the blue-dial 5990/1A-011 and the rose gold 5990/1R-001, both of which remain in the catalogue in 2026. The 5990 did not follow the 5711 out of production, and Patek has not signalled a change. That said, the steel Nautilus references Patek dropped in 2021 and 2025 were both quiet catalogue removals rather than announcements, so anyone buying at retail should confirm the reference is still listed on Patek's site at the time. The distinction matters for buyers comparing listings, since a "5990/1A" description alone does not say which dial is inside; the black-to-blue gradient and the plain sunburst blue are the two things to check before assuming a steel 5990 is the current production reference.

How much is a Patek 5990? Prices in 2026

• 5990/1A-011 (steel, blue). US retail sits around US$70,000 in 2026. Retail allocation goes to established boutique clients; secondary asks for unworn full sets have generally been in the US$130,000 to 180,000 range in 2025 and 2026.
• 5990/1A-001 (steel, black-blue, discontinued). No retail. Secondary asks broadly overlap the current steel watch, with clean full sets from the last production years a little above older examples.
• 5990/1R-001 (rose gold). US retail in the low US$100,000s. Secondary asks have run from the low US$200,000s to above US$300,000 depending on year and papers, which is a larger premium than the steel watch carries.
• Haute Joaillerie 5990/1400G and gem-set variants. Priced on request at retail; secondary examples are rare enough that there is no reliable band.

These bands describe what we saw across auction results and dealer listings in 2025 and 2026 and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, year, condition and papers; our Patek Philippe price guide explains how to compare quotes.

Is the Patek 5990 a good investment?

It has been a strong holder of value, but for reasons that have little to do with the watch. Steel 5990s trade at roughly double retail because Patek makes very few and allocates them to its best clients, and the rose gold 5990/1R has been the strongest performer in the Nautilus range since 2023 because it is both scarce and still in production, which keeps it visible. Both fell with the rest of the market in 2022 and 2023 before recovering, and the rose gold has recovered further than the steel, which is unusual since gold sports watches often lag steel on the way back up. Treat any purchase at secondary prices as buying a watch you want to wear; if the resale question matters, ask for a written cash-buy assessment for the same watch and condition before you commit.

5990 vs 5980 vs 5726: which complicated Nautilus?

The 5990 is the watch to choose if you travel and time things; the 5980 is the cleaner chronograph dial; the 5726 is the most affordable route into a complicated steel Nautilus. Our 5980 guide and 5726 guide cover the other two.

How does the Nautilus 5990 wear?

At 40.5 mm and with a case that has to hold a chronograph module on top of the Travel Time mechanism, the 5990 is the thickest common-metal Nautilus after the 5980, and it wears with real presence on the wrist, more so than a plain time-and-date 5711 of the same diameter. The pushers for the chronograph sit at 2 and 4, and the two correctors for local time sit into the case flank on the left, which keeps the right side of the case uncluttered but means the watch reads slightly asymmetric side-on compared with a standard Nautilus. The two-tone hour hands, one solid and one skeletonised, are legible enough that most owners use the Travel Time function daily rather than saving it for actual travel. Wrists from about 15.5 cm carry the steel 5990 comfortably; the rose gold 5990/1R-001 wears a little heavier for the same dimensions, which is typical of Patek's gold sports models against their steel equivalents.

Buying a 5990: what to check

• Papers. The Certificate of Origin cannot be reissued and an Extract from the Archives is only available for watches sold more than ten years ago, so a 2021 5990 without papers stays without papers until 2031. Our serial number check guide explains the numbers.
• Travel Time function. Press both left-side correctors and confirm the local hour hand jumps cleanly in both directions and the date follows across midnight. These correctors are the parts that get mis-set by owners.
• Chronograph. Start, stop, flyback and reset; the central hand should return exactly to zero.
• Dial version. Black-blue gradient means 5990/1A-001; plain blue means 5990/1A-011. Listings mix them up.
• Case and bracelet. Sharp brushed-to-polished transitions on the case flanks and bezel; the integrated left-side pushers should sit flush and show no witness marks from a refinish.
• Price against the band. A steel 5990 offered well under the market is the single most reliable warning sign.

Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch.

Quick answers

Is the Patek 5990 discontinued?

Only the original steel 5990/1A-001 with the black-blue dial, retired in 2021. The blue-dial 5990/1A-011 and the rose gold 5990/1R-001 remain in Patek's catalogue in 2026.

How much is a Patek 5990?

Retail is around US$70,000 for the steel 5990/1A-011 and the low US$100,000s for the rose gold 5990/1R-001. Secondary asks in 2025 and 2026 have run roughly US$130,000 to 180,000 for steel and US$200,000 to 300,000 or more for rose gold.

Is the Patek 5990 a good investment?

It has held value well because Patek makes very few and allocates them to established clients, but its price is set by scarcity, not by the watch. Buy it to wear and get a written cash-buy assessment if resale matters.

What is the difference between the 5990 and the 5980?

Both are 40.5 mm flyback chronographs on the CH 28-520 base. The 5990 adds a second time zone, day/night indicators and a local date; the 5980 is the simpler chronograph and is no longer made in steel.

What movement is in the 5990?

Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, an automatic flyback chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch and Travel Time module, 45 to 55 hours of power reserve.

What is a travel time chronograph?

A watch that combines a chronograph for timing events with a second time zone. The 5990 adds day and night indicators and a date that follows local time.

What is the difference between the 5990/1A and the 5990/1R?

Metal and dial finish. The 5990/1A-011 is steel with a blue sunburst dial; the 5990/1R-001 is rose gold with an embossed blue dial. Both are 40.5 mm and share the same movement.

Can you change the second time zone without stopping the watch?

Yes. The left-side correctors step the local hour hand forward or back one hour at a time while the watch keeps running.

Request a Nautilus 5990 sourcing quote

Tell us the reference, preferred year range, condition and whether original papers are required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Browse the Nautilus collection or sell or trade your 5990.

Related reading: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001 · Patek 5711/1A-014 Green Dial Nautilus · Patek 5711/112P-001 Ruby Nautilus · Patek Philippe vs Richard Mille · 5990/1R-001 review · Nautilus 5980 chronograph guide · Nautilus 5726 annual calendar guide · Nautilus 5740 perpetual calendar guide · Nautilus 5711 guide · Nautilus vs Aquanaut.