The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 is the rose gold Nautilus with a flyback chronograph and a Travel Time display: a 40.5 mm case, a blue sunburst dial with horizontal embossing, the self-winding calibre CH 28-520 C FUS and a rose gold bracelet. Patek Philippe introduced the rose gold version in 2021, seven years after the steel 5990/1A arrived in 2014, and it remains one of the most complicated watches in the Nautilus family. This guide covers the specifications, how the Travel Time and chronograph functions work, how the 5990/1R-001 compares with the steel 5990 and other Nautilus references, price bands in 2026 and what to check before buying. Bizak & Co. sources the 5990/1R-001 to order; the Nautilus collection lists the configurations we can seek.
Last reviewed on October 28, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are loose bands and dated observations, not quotes.
5990/1R-001 at a glance: specs and price band
- What it is: a rose gold Nautilus with a flyback chronograph and Travel Time (two time zones), 40.5 mm wide and 12.53 mm thick, with a blue sunburst dial.
- Movement: self-winding calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, with a power reserve of 45 to 55 hours.
- Launch: 2021; the steel 5990/1A dates from 2014.
- Price band, 2026: the price Patek Philippe displays on its reference page sits in the low six figures in US dollars; secondary-market asks have been well over double that, in the mid six figures, depending on condition and set. Retail availability is a separate question from the displayed price.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 specifications
| Attribute | 5990/1R-001 |
|---|---|
| Case | Rose gold, 40.5 mm across the 10 to 4 o'clock axis, 12.53 mm thick, screw-down crown, sapphire case back |
| Bracelet | Rose gold with a rose gold fold-over clasp |
| Dial | Blue sunburst, horizontally embossed, with rose gold applied baton markers and white luminescent coating |
| Movement | Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, self-winding, flyback chronograph with column-wheel drive and vertical disk clutch; 370 parts, 34 jewels, 28,800 vibrations an hour |
| Power reserve | Minimum 45 hours, maximum 55 hours; 21K gold central rotor |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph with a 60-minute counter, two time zones (local and home time), day and night indication for both, date by hand coupled with local time |
| Water resistance | 30 m according to Patek Philippe's current reference page |
| Introduced | 2021 (steel 5990/1A: 2014) |
Source: Patek Philippe's 5990/1R-001 reference page, re-checked on October 28, 2026. Patek Philippe can revise its technical data, so confirm the details of an individual watch on its certificate and case back.
When was the 5990/1R-001 released?
The rose gold 5990/1R-001 was unveiled in 2021, as part of the Nautilus-focused novelties Patek Philippe showed that spring. It added a precious-metal option to a complication that had until then been available in steel.
How do the Travel Time and chronograph functions work?
The skeletonised hour hand shows home time and the solid hour hand shows local time. Two pushers integrated into the case at 9 o'clock move the local hour hand forwards or backwards in one-hour steps, so you can change time zone without stopping the watch or resetting the minutes. Apertures show day or night for both home and local time, which removes the usual doubt about whether home is in the morning or the evening. The date is shown by a hand and follows local time, so it changes when you change zone.
The chronograph records elapsed time with a central hand and a 60-minute counter. The flyback function lets you reset and restart a measurement with one press of the reset pusher while the chronograph is running, which suits timing consecutive intervals. Patek Philippe describes the drive as combining tradition, a column wheel, with innovation, a vertical disk clutch. The result is a chronograph you can start without the small jump some older designs show.
How does the 5990/1R-001 wear at 40.5 mm?
The diameter is modest, but at 12.53 mm the case is thicker than a time-and-date Nautilus, and rose gold adds weight. The porthole-inspired case and integrated bracelet keep the watch stable on the wrist, and the alternating polished and satin surfaces stop it from looking heavy. Wrists of about 16 cm (6.3 inches) and above carry it comfortably; on smaller wrists the thickness is more noticeable than the diameter. The 5990 wears higher than the 5711 or 5811 for the same reason, so try both if you are choosing between the functions. The Nautilus 5711 guide covers the slimmer time-and-date model.
The blue sunburst dial changes with the light, from a near-black blue indoors to a brighter blue in the sun, and the rose gold hands and markers give it a warm tone. The horizontal embossing is the Nautilus signature, and the dial is more crowded than on the time-only models because the chronograph counter, date hand and day and night apertures all need a place.
5990/1R-001 vs 5990/1A vs 5980 vs 5811: which Nautilus?
| 5990/1R-001 | 5990/1A-001 | 5980 | 5811/1G-001 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Rose gold | Steel | Depends on the reference | White gold |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph and Travel Time | Flyback chronograph and Travel Time | Flyback chronograph | Time and date |
| Character | Warm, precious metal, most complicated | The original 5990 in steel, more sporty | The chronograph without a second time zone | The simplest and thinnest of the four |
The 5990/1A is the reference to compare first: the functions match, and the choice is between rose gold and steel. The Nautilus 5990 guide covers every 5990 reference and the Nautilus 5980 guide covers the chronograph without Travel Time. For a calendar rather than a chronograph, see the Nautilus 5726 guide and the Nautilus 5740 guide, or browse the Nautilus 5726 collection. If you are weighing the Nautilus against the Aquanaut, our Nautilus vs Aquanaut comparison sets out the differences.
Rose gold or steel: which 5990 should you choose?
The steel 5990/1A reads as the sportier watch, with a cooler, more utilitarian look, while the rose gold 5990/1R-001 is the warmer and more formal choice that can still be worn daily. Rose gold marks more easily than steel and the metal is softer, so a polished case shows wear sooner, but it pairs well with the blue dial. The two share the functions and the movement, so the choice is about look, weight and budget. If you choose on metal alone, remember that the material does not establish rarity or resale value; compare the whole reference, the dial and the set.
How much is a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 in 2026?
- Patek Philippe's own page. When we re-checked on October 28, 2026, the reference page on patek.com displayed a price in the low six figures in US dollars. Patek Philippe can change or withdraw a displayed price, and availability at retail is a separate matter.
- Secondary-market asks. Dealer asks we have seen for the 5990/1R-001, new and pre-owned, sit in the mid six figures, more than double the displayed price. The gap reflects demand well above allocation, not a different watch.
- What moves the price. An unpolished case, a complete set with the certificate and an intact bracelet each add to the ask. Wear, polishing, a missing certificate or bracelet links that are not original subtract.
Those bands describe what we saw on one date and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact condition and set. Our Patek Philippe price guide explains how to compare quotes, and auction results at Phillips watches and Sotheby's watches show how the market prices Nautilus references.
Is the 5990/1R-001 a good investment?
Treat it as a watch to wear first. Nautilus references with complications have been among the most sought-after modern Patek Philippe watches, but no reference is guaranteed to rise, and premiums over the price Patek Philippe displays can narrow. When a listing asks a large premium, you are paying for immediate delivery, and the premium is the part that can fall. The features that support the value of a Nautilus over time are an unpolished case, a full set and an original bracelet. If resale matters, ask for a written cash-buy assessment before you commit.
Buying a 5990/1R-001: what to check
- Certificate and serial. The certificate should carry the reference 5990/1R-001 and a serial number that matches the watch. On a pre-owned watch, consider an Extract from the Archives, which Patek Philippe issues for a fee.
- Flyback and Travel Time. Start the chronograph and press reset while it runs, and check that the hand returns to zero and restarts. Move the local hour hand with each pusher and confirm the date follows.
- Bracelet. Check for stretch, rattle and any replaced links, and confirm the fold-over clasp closes firmly.
- Case condition. Look at the sharpness of the polished and satin edges. Repeated polishing softens them and takes gold away.
- Service history. Ask for any service record from Patek Philippe or a service centre, and for a timing test.
- Water resistance. Patek Philippe's page lists 30 m. Do not swim or shower in it, and have the seals tested before any exposure to water.
- Authenticity. Buy from a seller that will put an authenticity guarantee in writing; ours is set out on the authenticity guarantee page.
Quick answers
What does Travel Time do on the Nautilus 5990/1R-001?
It shows home and local time with two hour hands and separate day and night apertures, and two pushers move the local hour hand in one-hour steps while home time keeps running.
How large is the Nautilus 5990/1R-001?
The rose gold case measures 40.5 mm across the 10 to 4 o'clock axis and is 12.53 mm thick.
What movement is in the 5990/1R-001?
It uses the self-winding calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, a flyback chronograph with Travel Time, a column-wheel drive and a power reserve of 45 to 55 hours.
When was the 5990/1R-001 released?
Patek Philippe unveiled the rose gold 5990/1R-001 in 2021; the steel 5990/1A arrived in 2014.
What is the difference between the 5990/1R-001 and the 5990/1A?
The functions and movement match. The 5990/1R-001 is rose gold with a blue dial, so it is heavier, warmer and more formal; the 5990/1A is steel and more sporty.
How much is a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001?
In 2026 the price patek.com displays is in the low six figures in US dollars, while secondary-market asks sit in the mid six figures, sourced to order. These are loose bands, not quotes.
Is the 5990/1R-001 water resistant?
Patek Philippe's current reference page lists 30 m, so treat it as splash resistant only and avoid swimming or showering in it.
Request a 5990/1R-001 sourcing quote
Tell us whether you want a new or pre-owned watch, whether the certificate and box are required, your budget and your timing through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: 5990/1R-001 Travel Time Chronograph, 5990/1R-001 rose gold blue and the pre-owned 5990/1R-001; browse the Nautilus collection, all Patek Philippe, or sell or trade your Patek Philippe. The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection page lists the current references.
Related reading: Nautilus 5990 guide · Nautilus 5980 guide · Nautilus 5726 guide · Patek Philippe price guide.
0 comments