Rolex Clasp Codes and Bracelet References Explained

Rolex clasp codes are the small stamped marks inside the clasp of an Oyster, Jubilee or President bracelet. On bracelets made from about 1976 to about 2010 the code is a letter for the year followed by a number for the month, so a clasp stamped "R3" was made in March 1993. The code dates the bracelet, not the watch, and that is exactly why it is useful: a clasp that is years away from the case serial usually means a replaced bracelet, which changes the price. This guide explains how to read the code, lists the year letters, sets out the common bracelet and end-link reference numbers for steel sports models, and covers what to check on a modern watch, where the code no longer dates anything. Bizak & Co. sources every model discussed here to order; the Rolex collection lists what we can seek.

Last reviewed on September 25, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

What is a Rolex clasp code?

Open the clasp and look at the inside of the folding blade or the clasp cover. On a bracelet from the late 1970s through the 2000s you will find the bracelet reference number (for example 93150), a Rolex crown, the words "Steelinox" or "Stainless Steel" on steel bracelets, and, on a separate line, a short stamped code of one or two letters and a number. That short code is the clasp code. Rolex stamped it at the point of manufacture so the factory could trace a batch; collectors use it as a production date for the bracelet. Before 1976 the stamp was a number for the quarter and the last two digits of the year, so "3 74" means the third quarter of 1974. From 1976 to 2001 the year was a single letter and the month a number. From 2002 to about 2010 the year became two letters. After that Rolex moved to codes that do not follow a published sequence, and the stamp no longer gives a date.

Rolex clasp code year letters, 1976 to 2001

The number after the letter is the month, 1 to 12. The two-letter codes used from 2002 onward are recorded in collector tables but were applied less consistently, and Rolex has never published any of this, so treat every clasp date as an estimate with a margin of a few months. The dates line up well with serial-number production years across the period, which is what makes them useful for cross-checking.

Why does the clasp code matter when buying?

Rolex sold bracelets as spare parts and replaced them at service for decades, so a large share of older sports watches wear a bracelet that is not the one they left the factory with. A replacement is not a fault, but it should be priced as one. A 1680 Submariner with a 1990s 93150 bracelet is a correct-looking watch with a later bracelet, and it should cost less than the same watch with its original 9315 or 93150 dated to the year of the case. The clasp code is the fastest way to spot the difference. Read the case serial between the lugs, estimate the case year, then compare it with the clasp date. A gap of up to about a year is normal because Rolex assembled bracelets in batches and cased watches later. A gap of five or ten years means a swap. Ask the seller to explain it and adjust the offer. Our vintage Submariner authentication guide covers the case and dial side of the same check.

Rolex bracelet reference numbers: which bracelet fits which watch?

Rolex bracelets carry their own reference number, stamped on the inside of the clasp, and the end links that join the bracelet to the case carry a separate three-digit code stamped on their underside. The bracelet reference tells you the style, width and construction; the end-link code tells you which case the bracelet was made to fit. A correct bracelet for a watch has both numbers right for the reference and the era.

The list is a starting point, not a complete register. Rolex changed end-link codes when it altered a case profile, and some references used two or three codes across their run. For a specific watch, compare what is stamped against a dated example of the same reference rather than against a general table. For the current models, the Rolex watches page names each bracelet and clasp; Rolex does not publish part numbers.

How did Rolex clasps change over the years?

• Folded-link era, to the late 1970s. Bracelets like the 7836 used links pressed from folded sheet. They are light, stretch with wear and rattle. Original folded bracelets on a 1675 or 1680 are valued for correctness rather than comfort.
• Solid links, 1980s. The 78360 and 93150 introduced solid centre links with hollow end links. The 93150 added the Fliplock extension for a wetsuit. Clasps were a simple stamped folding blade.
• Oysterlock, 1990s. The 78790 family brought the Oysterlock safety catch on the GMT-Master II and Explorer II. Stamped clasps with hollow end links continued to 2000 or so.
• Solid end links, about 2000. Rolex moved to solid end links across the sports range, which removed most of the rattle. The 16610 and 16710 wore them for their last years.
• Machined clasps and Glidelock, 2005 onward. The ceramic-bezel models introduced heavy milled clasps, the Glidelock extension on the Submariner and Sea-Dweller and the Easylink 5 mm extension on the GMT-Master II, Explorer and Daytona. Bracelet references for these are stamped inside but no longer follow the old dated code.

Which clasp is on the current Rolex models?

Rolex now names its clasps rather than its bracelet references, and the names are worth knowing because they change how the watch fits. The Oysterlock is the safety clasp with a folding cover and locking catch on the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Daytona, Explorer and Sea-Dweller. Glidelock is the tool-free extension inside the Submariner and Sea-Dweller Oysterlock that adjusts in 2 mm steps, up to 20 mm on the Submariner. Easylink is the 5 mm comfort extension folded into the clasp of the GMT-Master II, Daytona, Explorer and Datejust Oyster bracelets. The Oysterclasp is the plain folding clasp on Datejust and Oyster Perpetual bracelets. The Crownclasp is the concealed clasp on President and some Jubilee bracelets, opened with a small crown. Our Submariner 126610LN guide and GMT-Master II Batman guide describe how each clasp wears in practice.

Can you date a modern Rolex from the clasp?

No. Since about 2010 Rolex has stamped clasps and cases with codes that do not follow a published sequence, in the same way that it moved to random serial numbers. The only reliable dates on a modern Rolex are the warranty card date and, for a dealer, the records Rolex holds. If someone quotes a production year for a 126610LN or a 126710BLNR from the clasp, they are guessing. What you can still check on a modern bracelet is that the stamped bracelet reference matches the model, that the end links sit flush without a gap, and that the clasp cover engraving is crisp. A Glidelock that clicks unevenly or a cover that sits proud has usually been dropped or forced.

How much does an original bracelet add to a Rolex price?

For vintage and neo-vintage sports models, an original, dated, unstretched bracelet with correct end links is one of the larger single contributors to value after the dial. Dealers price the parts separately in their heads: a period-correct 93150 with 580 end links for a 5513, or a 78790A with 501B end links for a 16710, adds meaningfully to what the same watch fetches on a later service bracelet, and the same logic applies to a correct Jubilee on a GMT-Master. Bizak's sourced catalogue on September 25, 2026 listed a pre-owned Submariner 16610 at US$10,277 and a pre-owned Explorer 224270 at US$9,735, both sourced to order; the bracelet condition and originality are part of every quote we confirm. Our Rolex price guide explains how to compare quotes across condition grades.

Buying a Rolex with a replaced bracelet: what to check

• Clasp code against the serial. Estimate the case year from the serial between the lugs (or the rehaut on 2007 and later watches) and compare it with the clasp code. Up to a year apart is normal.
• Bracelet reference. Confirm the stamped reference is one Rolex fitted to that model. A 93150 on a GMT-Master II or a 78790 on a Submariner is wrong.
• End-link code. Turn the watch over and read the three-digit code on the underside of each end link. Both should match each other and the reference.
• Stretch. Hold the watch by the clasp and let the bracelet hang. A visible sag means worn pins and link holes; hollow-link bracelets stretch far more than solid ones.
• Clasp wear. The stamped clasps of the 1980s and 1990s wear at the blade and the catch. A clasp that will not stay shut or needs to be forced has a worn spring or a bent blade.
• Service bracelet disclosure. If the bracelet was replaced at a Rolex service centre, ask for the service invoice; it names the part fitted and dates it. Rolex watch care and service explains what a service covers.
• Price against the band. A full-set vintage watch offered well under the market with a bracelet the seller does not discuss is the single most reliable warning sign.

Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch, including the bracelet and clasp.

Quick answers

What do Rolex clasp codes mean?

On bracelets made from 1976 to about 2010 the code stamped inside the clasp gives the production date of the bracelet: a letter for the year (A is 1976, Z is 2001, then two letters) and a number for the month. It dates the bracelet, not the watch.

How do I read a Rolex clasp code?

Open the clasp and find the short stamped code near the bracelet reference. Match the letter to the year table (for example R is 1993) and read the number as the month, so R3 is March 1993.

Can I date a modern Rolex from the clasp code?

No. Since about 2010 Rolex has used codes that do not follow a published sequence. Use the warranty card date instead.

What does the bracelet reference number tell you?

The style and construction of the bracelet, for example 93150 for the Oyster with Fliplock extension fitted to the 16610 Submariner. The three-digit end-link code tells you which case it was made to fit.

Does a replaced bracelet lower a Rolex's value?

Yes, on vintage and neo-vintage sports models, where a period-correct original bracelet is a significant part of the price. On modern watches under warranty a service bracelet matters far less.

Request a sourcing quote for a Rolex with its original bracelet

Tell us the reference, preferred year range, condition and whether an original dated bracelet and papers are required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, bracelet and clasp codes and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: pre-owned Submariner 16610, Submariner 126610LN, GMT-Master II 126710BLNR on Jubilee; browse the used Submariner collection, the GMT-Master II collection, or sell or trade your Rolex.

Related reading: Vintage Submariner authentication guide · Submariner 16610LV Kermit guide · Submariner 16613 Bluesy guide · How to sell a Rolex.