Watch Bezel Materials Compared: Ceramic, Aluminium, Steel and Gold

Watch bezel materials fall into five groups: ceramic, which Rolex calls Cerachrom and which does not scratch or fade; anodised aluminium, the material of every dive and GMT bezel insert before the mid-2000s, which scratches and fades and is collected for it; steel, used for fixed engraved bezels and for the plain and fluted bezels on the Explorer II, Oyster Perpetual and Datejust; gold and platinum, used for fluted, smooth and gem-set bezels on precious-metal and Rolesor watches; and the carbon and composite bezels of Richard Mille. The material decides how the bezel looks after ten years, what it costs to replace and, on the secondary market, how much the watch is worth. This guide compares them, lists which references carry each, explains what the move from aluminium to ceramic did to Submariner and GMT-Master II prices, and sets out what to check on a bezel before buying used. Bizak & Co. sources every reference mentioned to order; the Submariner collection shows both ceramic and aluminium generations side by side.

Last reviewed on September 25, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

Bezel materials at a glance

The Rolex Submariner collection page describes Cerachrom in Rolex's own terms, and the Richard Mille collection pages describe the composite cases and bezels the brand uses instead of metal.

What is a ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel?

A ceramic bezel insert is a ring of zirconium or aluminium oxide ceramic, coloured through its full thickness, fired at high temperature and then machined and polished, with the numerals engraved and filled with a thin layer of platinum or gold by physical vapour deposition. Rolex introduced Cerachrom on the GMT-Master II 116718LN in yellow gold in 2005, brought it to the steel GMT-Master II 116710LN in 2007, the Submariner 116610 in 2010 and the Daytona 116500LN in 2016, and since 2013 has made two-colour inserts, first blue and black on the GMT-Master II 116710BLNR, then red and blue on the 116719BLRO in white gold in 2014 and on the steel 126710BLRO in 2018. Audemars Piguet uses black, white, blue and other coloured ceramic for Royal Oak Offshore bezels and for whole Royal Oak cases, and Richard Mille uses ceramic bezels on several references. The advantages are that it does not scratch in normal wear and does not fade, so a ten-year-old ceramic Submariner looks like a new one. The disadvantages are that ceramic is brittle and a hard knock on a door frame can chip or crack an insert, which then has to be replaced by the brand, and that it will never develop the faded patina that gives aluminium bezels their following.

What is an aluminium bezel and why do collectors want it?

An aluminium bezel insert is a thin disc of anodised aluminium with printed or engraved numerals, pressed into a steel bezel ring. It was the standard on every Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master and Sea-Dweller from the 1950s until the ceramic changeover, and on the Submariner 16610 and GMT-Master II 16710 until 2010 and 2007 respectively. Aluminium scratches easily, dents on impact and fades: blue inserts turn pale or grey, black inserts turn charcoal, and the red half of a Pepsi insert turns pink. That is the point for collectors. An original insert whose fade matches the age of the watch is evidence that the watch is untouched, and a Submariner 16610LV Kermit or a GMT-Master II 16710 with a soft, even fade is worth more than the same watch with a bright replacement insert. The aluminium bezel also has a practical advantage: it is cheap to replace if damaged. Our Kermit 16610LV guide and vintage Submariner authentication guide go into how to tell an original insert from a service part.

Steel, gold and platinum bezels

A metal bezel is part of the case rather than an insert. On the Explorer II the 24-hour bezel is fixed, engraved steel, brushed on top and polished on its edge; on the Oyster Perpetual and the smooth-bezel Datejust the steel bezel is a plain polished or domed ring; on the Nautilus and the Royal Oak the bezel is the design, an octagon or a rounded octagon in steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. Fluted bezels, the ridged rings that Rolex cuts only in gold or platinum, appear on the Datejust in white gold over a steel case, and in yellow or Everose gold on Rolesor and full gold watches; the Datejust collection page lists the fluted and smooth options. Gold is softer than steel, so a gold bezel dents more readily and the sharp edges of fluting soften with wear; platinum is denser and develops a soft sheen that many owners prefer. All metal bezels can be refinished at service, which is both the advantage and the risk: repeated polishing rounds the edges and thins the fluting, and a watch that has been refinished too often is worth less than one with light honest wear.

Ceramic or aluminium: which Submariner and GMT-Master II should you buy?

The ceramic watch is the one to buy if you want a watch that stays new; the aluminium watch is the one to buy if you want the 40 mm case, the lighter weight and the possibility of patina. The two generations also priced differently in a way that surprised buyers: when Rolex moved the Submariner to ceramic in 2010, the outgoing aluminium 16610 and especially the green 16610LV rose rather than fell, because the supply was fixed and the look could no longer be bought new. The 126610LV Starbucks guide and the Submariner price guide show dated asks across both generations.

Royal Oak, Nautilus and Richard Mille bezels

On an integrated-bracelet watch the bezel is the signature. The Royal Oak's octagonal bezel, with eight visible hexagonal screws, is offered in steel, yellow, pink and white gold, titanium, and black or coloured ceramic, and its finishing, a brushed top with polished chamfers, is the most-copied in the industry; the Audemars Piguet collection pages show each material. The Nautilus's rounded octagonal bezel comes in steel, rose and white gold and, on some references, set with diamonds; the Patek Philippe Nautilus page lists the current metals. Neither has an insert, so there is nothing to replace, and their condition is a matter of the case finishing described in our Royal Oak authentication guide. Richard Mille builds its tonneau cases as a three-part sandwich of bezel, caseband and caseback in titanium, gold, ceramic, Carbon TPT or Quartz TPT, held by spline screws, so the bezel is a structural part rather than a ring; it does not scratch easily, it does not fade, and it is replaced only by the manufacturer.

How bezel material affects price and value

At retail, the material of the bezel is priced into the case: a gold-bezel Rolesor Submariner costs more than a steel one, and a platinum-bezel Yacht-Master more than a steel Submariner, because of the metal. On the secondary market the effect is less direct. Ceramic-bezel steel sports models command the largest premiums over retail because they are the current references and demand is widest. Aluminium-bezel predecessors have a different market: they trade on originality and condition, and an untouched faded insert can add a substantial amount to a 16610 or 16710, while a service insert subtracts. Precious-metal bezels neither add nor subtract much on their own; the watch trades on the whole case. The figures in the table above describe what our sourced catalogue showed on 25 September 2026 and will move; ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, insert and set. Our Rolex price guide explains how to compare quotes across generations.

Buying a used watch: what to check on the bezel

• Ceramic insert for chips. Run a fingernail around the outer edge and the numerals; a chip at the edge or a hairline crack across the insert means a brand replacement, and the price should reflect it.
• Ceramic numerals. The platinum or gold fill should be even and bright; a dull or patchy fill on a ceramic insert is a sign of a poor aftermarket part.
• Aluminium insert originality. Printing font, lume pip style and the depth of fade should match the watch's year; a bright, perfect insert on a 1990s watch is a service part, which is fine if priced as such.
• Bezel action. A dive bezel should click cleanly in one direction with no back-play; a GMT bezel clicks in both directions; a stiff, gritty or loose bezel means dirt or a worn click spring.
• Alignment. The bezel triangle or 24 marker should sit exactly at 12 when the bezel is at rest; misalignment is common on aftermarket inserts and on bezels refitted after a service.
• Metal bezel edges. On fluted, Explorer II and Royal Oak bezels, sharp edges and even brushing show an unpolished watch; rounded fluting or blurred chamfers show repeated refinishing.
• Price against the band. A full-set watch with a perfect bezel offered well under the market is the single most reliable warning sign.

Our authentication process includes checking each bezel insert against the reference's factory part and the watch's age.

Quick answers

Is a ceramic bezel better than aluminium?

For durability, yes: ceramic does not scratch or fade. Aluminium is lighter, cheaper to replace and develops the faded patina that collectors pay for on older Submariners and GMT-Masters.

When did Rolex switch to ceramic bezels?

The GMT-Master II 116718LN in yellow gold in 2005 was first, followed by the steel GMT-Master II in 2007, the Submariner in 2010 and the Daytona in 2016. Two-colour Cerachrom arrived with the blue and black 116710BLNR in 2013.

Can a ceramic bezel crack?

Yes. Ceramic is very hard but brittle, so a sharp impact on an edge can chip or crack the insert. Rolex replaces the insert as a service part.

Does a faded bezel reduce the value of a Rolex?

Not on an aluminium-bezel reference such as the 16610 or 16710; an original insert with even fade usually adds value. A replacement insert on those watches subtracts.

Are fluted bezels always gold?

On Rolex, yes. Fluted bezels are cut in white, yellow or Everose gold or in platinum, including the white gold fluted bezel on steel Datejust references.

Request a Submariner or GMT-Master II sourcing quote

Tell us the reference, bezel colour, preferred year range, condition and whether the warranty card or papers are required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, papers and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: Submariner 126610LV green ceramic bezel, GMT-Master II 126710BLRO Pepsi on Jubilee, pre-owned Submariner 116610LV Hulk; browse the Submariner collection, the GMT-Master II collection, the used Submariner collection, or sell or trade your watch.

Related reading: Submariner 16610LV Kermit guide · Submariner 126610LV Starbucks guide · Pepsi GMT-Master II guide · Vintage Submariner authentication.