Rose Gold Patek Philippe References: Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava and Complications Guide

Patek Philippe makes rose gold versions of almost every family it produces: the Nautilus 5711/1R, 5712/1R, 5980/1R and 5990/1R, the Aquanaut 5167R, 5164R and 5968R, the Calatrava 5227R, and a long list of Complications and Grand Complications with the "R" suffix. Patek's rose gold is an 18 ct 5N alloy, warmer and redder than yellow gold, and the "R" in the reference tells you the case metal before you have seen the watch. This guide lists the rose gold references most buyers ask about, explains what each one is, how the metal wears and what the references cost to source in 2026, and sets out what to check before buying. Bizak & Co. sources rose gold Patek Philippe to order; the Patek Philippe collection lists the configurations we can seek.

Last reviewed on September 21, 2026 by Filip Biczak. Prices are dated observations, not quotes.

What does the "R" in a Patek Philippe reference mean?

Patek Philippe encodes the case metal in the letter after the reference number: A is steel, J is yellow gold, G is white gold, P is platinum and R is rose gold. A slash and a second number, as in 5711/1R, means the watch is on a matching bracelet rather than a strap; a three-digit code after the hyphen, as in 5711/1R-001, identifies the dial. So a 5167R-001 is a rose gold Aquanaut on a strap with the brown dial, and a 7118/1R-001 is a rose gold Nautilus 35.2 mm on a bracelet with the silvery opaline dial. Patek's rose gold is an 18 ct 5N alloy, which is the redder end of the rose gold spectrum; it does not fade or change colour the way some lower-copper alloys do, but it does show hairline scratches sooner than steel. The Patek Philippe collection pages list every current reference by family and metal.

Rose gold Patek Philippe references at a glance

Every figure above is a catalogue ask observed on 21 September 2026 for a watch sourced to order, and the two 5167R figures are two separate listings that differ by year and set. They are not retail prices; Patek Philippe publishes its list prices on the product pages linked from the collection index.

Which Nautilus references come in rose gold?

The 5711/1R-001 is the rose gold version of the 40 mm Nautilus with a brown gradient dial on a full rose gold bracelet; it stayed in the catalogue after the steel 5711/1A was discontinued in 2021 and is the reference most people mean when they say "rose gold Nautilus". The 5712/1R-001 adds the moon phase, power reserve and pointer date of the calibre 240 PS IRM C LU on the same case. The 5980/1R-001 is the 40.5 mm flyback chronograph with a single 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter at 6, and the 5990/1R-001 combines that chronograph with a Travel Time second time zone and a blue dial. For smaller wrists the 7118/1R is the 35.2 mm Nautilus on a rose gold bracelet, offered with a silvery opaline dial (7118/1R-001) or a golden brown dial (7118/1R-010), and the 7118/1200R adds a diamond bezel. Our Nautilus 5990 guide and Nautilus 5740 guide cover two of the complicated Nautilus references in more depth.

Which Aquanaut references come in rose gold?

The Aquanaut 5167R-001 is the 40.8 mm time-and-date Aquanaut in rose gold on a brown composite strap with a brown embossed dial; it is the entry point to a gold Patek sports watch and the reference we are asked to source most often in this metal. The 5164R-001 is the Travel Time version with a second hour hand and day and night indicators, and the 5968R-001 is the 42.2 mm flyback chronograph. Rose gold Aquanauts are also made for women: the 5268/200R-001 and 5269/200R-001 are 38.8 mm cases with diamond-set bezels and white dials, and the 5072R-001 Aquanaut Luce is a 36 mm jewellery version. The Aquanaut 5167 guide explains the difference between the steel and rose gold 5167 and the strap options.

Which dress and Calatrava references come in rose gold?

• Calatrava 5227R-001. 39 mm, ivory lacquer dial, calibre 324 S C, and a hinged officer-style dust cover over the sapphire caseback that closes so precisely the seam is hard to find. It is the classic rose gold Calatrava for men.
• Calatrava 4997/200R-001 and 7200/200R-001. 35 mm and 34.6 mm cases with diamond-set bezels and the ultra-thin calibre 240; the 4997 has a purple dial and the 7200 a silvery opaline dial.
• Golden Ellipse 5738R-001. The 1968 elliptical case at 34.5 by 39.5 mm with a black sunburst dial; rose gold is the metal it has been made in longest.
• Gondolo Serata 4962/200R-001. A curved rectangular rose gold case with diamonds and a brown dial, the least expensive rose gold Patek in our catalogue on 21 September 2026 at US$31,154.
• Twenty~4 7300/1200R. The 36 mm automatic Twenty~4 on a rose gold bracelet with a diamond bezel, in brown (-001), silver (-010) or rose (-011) dials.

Which complications come in rose gold?

Rose gold is the metal Patek Philippe uses most for its calendar watches, and the 5205R annual calendar with moon phase at 40 mm is the one most often bought as a first complication. The 5396R is the smaller 38.5 mm annual calendar with in-line day and month apertures; the 5905R is the 42 mm flyback chronograph with annual calendar; the 5230R is the 38.5 mm World Time with 24 cities on the outer ring. Above those sit the Grand Complications: the 5327R perpetual calendar with a hand-engraved rose gold case, the 5270/1R perpetual calendar chronograph on a rose gold bracelet, the 5204/1R split-seconds perpetual calendar, and the 5370R split-seconds chronograph with a brown enamel dial. Patek also makes rose gold minute repeaters and the Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002R, which are ordered through the manufacture rather than bought off a shelf. The Grand Complications collection lists the ones we can seek.

How does rose gold Patek Philippe wear compared with steel or white gold?

Rose gold is the Patek metal that ages best visually because its 5N alloy is stable and there is no plating to wear. It is also the heaviest choice on a bracelet, so try a 5711/1R or 5980/1R on the wrist before choosing it over a strap reference. On a composite or leather strap, a rose gold Aquanaut or Calatrava wears no heavier than steel.

How much does a rose gold Patek Philippe cost in 2026?

• Retail. Patek Philippe publishes its list prices on the product pages linked from its collection index, and they rise most years. Rose gold dress references such as the 5227R list well below the rose gold sports references, and every rose gold Nautilus and Aquanaut is allocated by the authorised dealer rather than sold on request, so retail is a reference point rather than a price most buyers can pay. Check the Patek page for the current figure before comparing quotes.
• Secondary market. Rose gold sports references trade well above retail. On 21 September 2026 our sourced catalogue listed the 5711/1R-001 at US$205,999, the 5712/1R-001 at US$288,400, the 5980/1R-001 at US$236,900 and the 5990/1R-001 at US$314,149, all sourced to order. The Aquanaut 5167R-001 was listed at US$89,500 and US$113,699 across two examples, the 5164R-001 at US$144,200 and the 5968R-001 at US$162,611.
• Dress and complications. These trade closer to retail. The catalogue listed the 5227R-001 at US$46,041, the 5205R at US$56,458 to US$59,739, the 5396R-015 at US$60,165, the 5230R-001 at US$43,772, the 5327R-001 at US$104,760 and the 5270/1R-001 at US$183,005 on the same date.

Those figures describe what we saw and will move. Ask for a dated quote for the exact reference, dial code and set; our Patek Philippe price guide explains how to compare quotes across references.

Buying a rose gold Patek Philippe: what to check

• Reference and dial code. The full code on the certificate of origin (for example 5711/1R-001) should match the caseback engraving and the dial fitted; a -010 dial in a -001 watch is a swap.
• Certificate and case numbers. The movement and case numbers on the certificate of origin must match the watch. Patek does not reissue certificates, but an extract from the archives can confirm the original configuration and sale date of an older watch.
• Case edges. Rose gold polishes easily, so look for soft chamfers, rounded Nautilus ears and shallow bezel facets, all signs of repeated refinishing.
• Bracelet. On 5711/1R, 5712/1R, 5980/1R and 7118/1R, check the links for stretch and the clasp for gold-on-gold wear. Removed links add resale value; ask whether they come with the watch.
• Strap and buckle. Aquanaut composite straps are consumables; the rose gold fold-over clasp should be original and hallmarked.
• Service. Calibres 324, 26-330 and 240 have long service intervals but not indefinite ones; ask for the last Patek service receipt.
• Price against the band. A full-set rose gold Nautilus offered far under the market is the single most reliable warning sign.

Our authentication process describes what we inspect before dispatch, and the Patek Philippe authentication guide goes deeper on certificates and extracts.

Quick answers

What does R mean in a Patek Philippe reference?

R is rose gold. Patek Philippe uses A for steel, J for yellow gold, G for white gold, P for platinum and R for 18 ct 5N rose gold; a slash number such as /1R means a matching gold bracelet.

Which Patek Philippe Nautilus is rose gold?

The 5711/1R-001 time and date, 5712/1R-001 moon phase, 5980/1R-001 chronograph and 5990/1R-001 Travel Time chronograph at 40 to 40.5 mm, and the 7118/1R at 35.2 mm. All are on rose gold bracelets.

How much is a rose gold Patek Philippe Aquanaut?

Bizak's sourced catalogue listed the Aquanaut 5167R-001 at US$89,500 and US$113,699 across two examples, the 5164R-001 Travel Time at US$144,200 and the 5968R-001 chronograph at US$162,611 on 21 September 2026, all sourced to order.

Does Patek Philippe rose gold change colour?

No. Patek uses a stable 18 ct 5N alloy with no plating, so the colour stays warm and red with age. It does pick up hairline scratches faster than steel, which a light polish removes.

What is the cheapest rose gold Patek Philippe?

On 21 September 2026 the least expensive rose gold Patek in Bizak's catalogue was the Gondolo Serata 4962/200R-001 at US$31,154, followed by the Calatrava 4997/200R-001 at US$32,896 and the 7200/200R-001 at US$42,901, all sourced to order.

Request a rose gold Patek Philippe sourcing quote

Tell us the reference and dial code, preferred year range, condition and whether the certificate of origin is required, plus your budget and timing, through our sourcing enquiry form. We confirm the specific watch, photographs, certificate and final price before you commit. Catalogue entries: Nautilus 5711/1R-001, Nautilus 5712/1R-001, Aquanaut 5167R-001, Calatrava 5227R-001, Annual Calendar 5205R-010; browse the Patek Philippe collection, the rose gold watches collection, or sell or trade your Patek Philippe.

Related reading: Aquanaut 5167 guide · Nautilus 5990 guide · Patek Philippe price guide · Patek Philippe authentication guide.